"Build A Bulletproof E-Savage"

--Updated April 2009--

This is a dedicated article to go through a complete E-Savage build with all the goodies. When we are done, we expect a very strong and fast truck that is ready for the rough. Bash or race, this build will give you tips and info to keep your truck running fast through it all, and help you do some of the tuning needed for less maintenance and more fun. The goodies are linked too!

In the beginning.....

We start off with, of course, a Custom Tray Brushless Edition chassis from GCM Racing.

We decided to begin our build by assembling one half of the truck on the front and rear diff assemblies. Here is the rear and the front on the one side. The hardware we will be using is the GCM Racing E-savage Hex screw kit. This kit includes all the needed screws , allen wrenches, and a bunch of extra screws and locknuts for different setups, one of which we will do here using the popular Twin Force Battery Trays. We decided to leave ALL SCREWS loose until all the parts were installed on the TVP plates, and then tighten everything at the end. This makes all the parts fit just a bit easier.

We know that good components are a must for a top level truck, and we knew that there is no better steering upgrade than the Super Glide steering kit from Panic Toys. This little box of hardware will tighten and smooth out all areas of the E-Savage steering for a result that will amaze you. We mounted the steering parts on a GCM Racing Chassis Braces set to make that metal link between the side plates and the SkidPlates by GCM Racing. Note the spaces between the components, as no screws are tightened yet.

After the first couple of screws with your hand-held allen wrenches, you will be following this next idea. We got tired of the cranking real fast, and chopped off the bent end of the allen wrench and stuck it in the hand drill. Now driving the new screw set is a breeze. When you get the one side finished, it should look something like this:

Any seasoned E-Savage owner knows that the stock HPI differentials are not up to spec for a strong brushless setup. GCM Racing has answered this question with the TWIN Differential Conversion which includes complete instructions and tips to keep your diffs tough.

The next in line was securing the center driveshafts. Nothing says tough hardened steel drive cups and dogbones like the new Kershaw Designs RB BL Center Dogbone Kit. These fit perfectly, with very little room for the usual 'put-foam-in-the-cup-to-keep-it-from-rattling' trick. A very nice product, and a very nice price. Don't forget to loctite the cup screws. Like we said, we are going to use all the goodies on this one.

Knowing we are going to use the Kyosho Twin Force Battery holders, we decided to use the optional hardware from the GCM Screw Kit. This meant drilling countersinks into our nice, clean chassis plates, but it also meant NO CUTTING for the TF trays to fit. The holes to be countersunk are the lower X brace under the ESC mount, and the 2 bottom holes on the center gearbox. We added 3 holes to the rear ends of the battery holders, and just bolted them on with the flathead M3 screws and the locknuts. A very solid setup indeed, with 3 of the front holes lining up with the RB BL chassis already, and having only ONE chassis plate on the truck, we can see where to add the holes to the TF trays, and it's all on there in minutes.

Where are we going to put that ESC now.. there are 2 easy options. And which one to choose... with so many options for a good Brushless Controller, we chose the ever-popular Castle Creations Mamba Max ESC. This unit is so well done, it even comes with the software and cable to PC program the thing. And very nicely made. A solid American product with an excellent track record. Here's one mounting method: This controller uses a plastic tub to house the electronics. We removed the guts with the 2 small screws on the top and bolted the tub to the motor mount with flathead hardware and locknuts. (was not included in the screw kit) I don't think this will fall off any time soon. This mid-mounting position also allowed the already short wires on our brushless motor to reach the Mamba Max with enough left to zip-tie them on the chassis plates and have a clean look that should not get hung up on anything. We used a 17 tooth pinion gear from Kershaw Designs to get the power out of the motor.

The second method is a bolt on ESC Mount by GCM Racing. By using just 2 existing screws, and sticking the ESC to the mount plate, it's a simple way to get your ESC on there safely, and this method gives you some added protection from rocks and dirt flying up from the bottom.

By this time you should have most of your electronics in and the radio box back together. Now what are you going to do about the ESC switch? If you are using the stock E-Savage ESC, then this is not an issue, as the switch mounts in the rear bumper, but for other ESC's with a short wire your are out of luck. We went with a separate 4 cell battery pack to power the reciever and steering servo also, mounted under the ESC tray in the back, and used 2 sided foam tape to mount both the ESC and the battery switches to the top of the TF holder on the left side.

Next in line is to install the EXarm Suspension Kit and the EXarm-RD Logics CVD Kit from GCM Racing. This comprehensive kit contains all hardware and components to convert our BL E-Savage into a widened corner carving monster with the strongest driveline parts available. There are even larger inner wheel bearings to help with the extra load! All this stuff fits on our stock parts, like the diff cases and steering hubs and knuckles.

While the new truck has no suspension in the way, we decided to put on all 4 drive cups first. Be sure to line up the pin hole with the diff output shaft. When we got the adapter lined up and pressed it into the drive cup and checked the alignment of the hole. Just to be sure it's a clean fit, we reamed out the hole with a 3/32 inch or a 2.5mm drill.

Next we nudged on the CVD drive cup with the hole lined up for the setscrew, which comes off the old E-Savage axle. Don't forget the threadlocker on this setscrew. This is a strong setup and promises to run true and take a beating. I hope you have the hardened diff outputs from HPI for your diff. Most of the newer trucks have these, but if not, you can order a set of diff output shafts from your hobby retailer and replace your older ones, which tended to break at the hole under harsh conditions.

We decided to use the HPI Aluminum Shock Set for our build, and try it out using only 4 shocks, which has worked very well when using the GP Savage shocks, although we expect the white springs to be a bit soft. After putting the arms and pins in we mounted the shocks with the supplied M3 x 12mm long hex screws. If you are using different shocks, be sure to use a screw that will thread all the way through the EXarm mounting holes, just to make sure you have enough screw contact. Don't forget to add light thread locker in there. We are going to set up a hard track and ashphalt racer for this time, and will use the outside shock mount hole on the arm. This will keep the truck low and make the suspension react quickly for some good lateral control. Combined with the SuperGlide steering, we expect fast response in the direction department.

Now on to the CVD's and steering knuckles. The EXarm CVD kit comes with new inner bearings, and outer hexdrive nuts. We used the supplied hexes because the stock E-Savage hexes don't sit down on the drive pin like the new ones. The stockers sat out farther and left some play in the shaft, but the new ones took care of that completely. After greasing up the CVD units and installing the rubber boots, we installed the new bearing into the carrier and slid the CVD axle through the new inner and the old outer bearings and installed the drive pin and hex. Once these components are installed you should have a drive system that runs smooth through the entire travel of the suspension.

The tierod is simple with this new arms setup. The E-Savage rear tierods move to the front, and the rear is replaced with the new parts included in the kit. Just a quick alignment to get 0 toe in the front, and 1 or 1.5 deg toe-in for the rear, and we are ready to roll straight and true.

We had a set of HPI Phaltline Tires around and we are going to give them a try. They come with a set of 17mm Hexes to use on the axle, which we did not install. We used the HPI 17mm Hex Kit specifically for the E-Savage. This kit left less play in the axle and bearings than the hexes that came with the wheels. The Phaltline tires seem a little hard, but with out seeing them perform, we can't judge the grip they will have. They look GREAT though, and are just slightly heavier (stock is 195g)and taller (5mm) than the stock E-Savage tires, which rounds out the look alot.

In the end our truck looks like this: With a stock E-Savage truck body, and these upgrades we have a good looking truck with great performance that's ready to tackle the road or rough. With a quick change of the rubber, the local pit will be our playplace, or it's off to the local skate park for some hang time.

Off to the races!